Isla Espíritu Santo

March 17, 2018

(This is being sent 2 weeks after the fact, as we have been out of cell and WIFI for awhile now.)

We left La Paz by 8:30 am hoping to catch the forecasted gentle breeze from the west this morning as we made our way out of the La Paz channel and into some more “remote” anchorages.  Malo was provisioned for at least 4 weeks with enough food and water on board in preparation for survival.  I contacted my family to alert them that we would be out of cell phone/WIFI range for a while.  InReach would be our sole means of communication.  This was the part of the trip Dan and I were most geared up for.

Hopefully we will not see many more freighters over the next few weeks. 

Our destination was Isla Espiritu Santo - a Natural Marine Park which lies only 20 miles north of La Paz.  A few other cruising boats we knew where heading that way also, so we decided to join them at the same anchorage called Ensenada de la Raza.  (Lynn and Curt on Slow Motion,  Mike and Melissa on Galapagos, and Rick on Gray Goose.)   Isla Espiritu is a rugged desert island surrounded by clear, turquoise water, sea birds and fish with great snorkeling spots. 

We had a great sail and the wind was perfect for heading north.  While Dan took his nap, I got some heavier 18 knot blows which were fun and we were going 7.5 knots.  Even though we left before the other boats, they still were at the anchorage before us.  They mostly motored there and did not have to tack.   Dan and I both enjoy the sailing and not listening to the sounds of an engine. The anchorage we were going to was called Ensenada de la Raza.  Here you can begin to see the striations in the cliffs.  

Slow Motion, Galapagos and Gray Goose had already anchored.

Once anchored and out of the wind, we went for a swim and snorkel on the northern side of the bay.  The other cruisers had headed over there, so we joined them for some snorkeling.  It was very good visibility and we saw lots of fish.  

The following morning, Dan and I had a long SUP paddle to the far side of the bay where we wanted to explore.  The wind was starting to pick up, so it took some effort paddling but we made it.  We stopped along the way for a rest.   As you can see, it is all rocks and desert with amazing cactus.  We heard goats in the distance, although never saw any. 

At the very end of the harbor was this sandy beach with a lot of crabs that ran away as quickly as you approached them.  I tried not to walk in the water though because there are lots of stingrays which bury themselves in the sand and if you step on one, their tail comes up and stings you.  I have heard, if you shuffle your feet as you walk, they move away.  I prefer not to step in the water in the first place.  That is why SUP boards are so nice here because I can get close to the shore.

Close to the water grow Mangroves which extend their roots toward the water.  The birds and fish love to hide within the protection of these shoreline bushes.  We have come across them in many of the coves on the Baja.

We hiked along a desert wash, exploring the landscape. It is all very rugged, tough and whatever survives here must be incredibly adaptable and tough.









 As you can see from the picture below, life in the desert can be hard.

That is the end of this blog. Stay tuned for more.

La Paz

We left Los Muertos at the tailing end of another northerly wind.  Our 20 knot winds eased into 15 and then 6 knot winds throughout the night.  Our destination was La Paz, Mexico.



When we arrived at Marina Cortez, we were greeted by our friends Curt and Lynn on Slow Motion, and Kerry and Lou on Passages.  For me, spending time with them was the highlight of being in La Paz, which happens to be a really cool city and very cruiser friendly.











But out time here is short and so is this blog.  As we are now heading north into some more remote anchorages.  We will be out of cell and WIFI for a while now.  Until then..!Hasta Luego!

  

Exploring Bahía de Los Muertos

Exploring Bahía de Los Muertos

March 7 to March 12, 2018

We did an overnight passage from Los Frailes to another beautiful bay called Los Muertos.  We left around 5 pm  to sail through the night and arrive in the bay after daybreak.  It was a very pleasant sail with sufficient winds, a beautiful sunset and evening skies. The following photos are from the evening sail.  As you can see, it was very dramatic.

  

Eventually the morning arrived and as we approached Los Muertos, the rugged coastline became more apparent.  The contrast between desert and water is striking.

Dan keeps a watchful eye as we approach the anchorage.

Once we were anchored, we were blessed with another fabulous sunset.

The following morning, I woke up to a nice sunrise and our neighbors were taking off for La Paz.

Dan and I took the dinghy to shore and enjoyed a walk up one of the hillsides where we saw these wonderful views.  

We enjoyed out hike so much, that we extended it to another cove.  By then I was so hot, I just had to jump into the water to cool off.

There were many stunning looking cactus.

We decided to take the SUP boards out several times while in this beautiful bay.  The water is so clear one can see 25 ft below.  When we were close to shore, we paddled over some reefs where we could see live coral, fish and more.  It was very cool.

We really enjoyed out 5 days at this bay.  There was a restaurant where we ate out a few times.  The WIFI was not that good there, so it was rather frustrating trying to get blog out.  So here it is, a few days late.  

Exploring Los Frailes

Los Frailes is a beautiful anchorage where we spent two nights.  It is famous for it’s protection from the northerly winds and for the snorkeling.  We were happy to have the rest and our first full day was spent doing just that.  It was still was pretty windy and so going to shore was not all that inviting to us.  I enjoyed two long naps that day.  

 Cerros Los Frailes 

Front view of Malo, showing SUP boards lashed on top.

On our second day there, we inflated the dinghy and went to shore.  Here are some photos of that day.  

The beach where people snorkel is over some reefs below this mountain.  The water was a mere 70 degrees if that.  I am sorry to say, normally my New England blood would’ve loved that, but I’ve gotten used to 80 degree water.  We used our shorties and after 45 minutes I was ready to call it quits.  We did see some pretty fish and schools of fish swimming among the coral and rocks.  

Dan and I hiked up a sand dune and discovered a pond on the back side.  

The birds like to follow the fisherman for some easy food. Peligans, frigat birds, & seagulls all hung around waiting for the handout.  

A number of camping vehicles, tents etc were scattered over the area.

And here Malo sits in this quiet anchorage.  We will leave for Bahía de Los Muertos during the late afternoon for an overnight passage.